If you're spending just one day in Valletta, here are our suggestions
Start with a Maltese-style breakfast at Cafe Jubilee, where the pastizzi, roasted pastries stuffed with ricotta or mashed peas are delicious, huge and cheap, washed down with a brew of strong coffee. Then for some cultural intake, visit St John's Co-Cathedral, the most ornate church in Malta, awash with baroque art and home to Caravaggio's masterpiece. It pays homage to its creators, the Knights of Malta, whose legacy is even more evident at The Grand Master's Palace & Armoury. You're probably hungry by now, so stop by for a taste of modern Maltese food at Rubino or for a great lunch at Spezzo.
If you're still keen to sightsee, take a look at the War Museum where you can easily spend 30 minutes perusing the armaments and, more interestingly, the documents -mostly journals and pictures -that record the intense aerial bombardment Malta was subjected to.
Further on, beyond Fort St Elmo, on Mediterranean Street, which skirts the eastern flank of Valletta, veer into St Paul's Street, an evocative quaint street with lovely house faQades and St Paul's Shipwreck Church which is one of Malta's most ornate churches.
Along St Paul's Street, the last 50 metres are up a steep incline, which enraged Lord Byron during his visit in 1770s. A reward awaits you at the top: the breezy Upper Barrakka Gardens offer a perfect stop for refreshments while you take in the view from the parapet of the splendid Grand Harbour and the medieval towns across the water.
You cannot leave Valletta without visiting the National Museum of Archaeology, where Malta's marvellous Neolithic remains are kept. You can then watch sunset from Hastings Garden, perched high behind the landward ramparts of the fortifications. By now most office workers have left Valletta and a few shoppers remain. It's time to enjoy the splendour of the city in peace and quiet. Just wander around and look at the beautiful faqades, some derelict, some restored, but all exuding charm. If you're not hungry yet drop in at St James Cavalier Centre where you can easily spend 30 minutes perusing the armaments and, more interestingly, the documents -mostly journals and pictures -that record the intense aerial bombardment Malta was subjected to.
Further on, beyond Fort St Elmo, on Mediterranean Street, which skirts the eastern flank of Valletta, veer into St Paul's Street, an evocative quaint street with lovely house faQades and St Paul's Shipwreck Church (see p25) which is one of Malta's most ornate churches. Along St Paul's Street, the last 50 metres are up a steep incline, which enraged Lord Byron during his visit in 1770s. A reward awaits you at the top: the breezy Upper Barrakka Gardens offer a perfect stop for refreshments while you take in the view from the parapet of the splendid Grand Harbour and the medieval towns across the water. You cannot leave Valletta without visiting the National Museum of Archaeology, where Malta's marvellous Neolithic remains are kept. You can then watch sunset from Hastings Garden, perched high behind the landward ramparts of the fortifications. By now most office workers have left Valletta and a few shoppers remain. It's time to enjoy the splendour of the city in peace and quiet. Just wander around and look at the beautiful facades, some derelict, some restored, but all exuding charm. If you're not hungry yet drop in at St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity to view temporary exhibitions of modern art by eminent Maltese artists or have a look and see if there is something on at the Manoel Theatre.
The hunger pangs must be setting in. There is a great selection of restaurants to choose from for a romantic dinner: Fumla cooks up the best fish around in beautiful surroundings, Malata offers great French dishes outdoors in Palace Square, while Fusion Four serves outstanding fusion food, just a short walk from St James Cavalier. If you prefer a light evening snack and a glass of wine go to Trabuxu, Cafe Jubilee or the cutting-edge 2 22, set within Valletta' bastions.